Acknowledgments

My thanks and appreciation go to all those who encouraged, aided and abetted in This Can’t Be Tofu! , in particular, my favorite tofu eater, Patrick McFarlin, who kept saying, “This can’t be tofu!” and thus named the book; Anne Marie Bough who cheerfully added recipe testing to her already demanding job as a line cook; Mark Mattern of Disney World, whose enthusiasm got me to enjoy my first of many tofu smoothies; Cheryl Jamison, who shared her considerable knowledge of smoke and spice, resulting in barbecued tofu; Harriet Bell, editor par excellence, who asked if I knew anyone who might want to write a little book on tofu and thus piqued my interest; and to my indefatigable agent, Doe Coover, for once again moving an idea toward becoming a book.

This book did not appear out of nowhere, but out of the work, lives, and traditions of many people. I would especially like to acknowledge Bill Shurtleff and Aikiko Ayogi for leading the way of tofu in America with their masterful work, The Book of Tofu , which has long been a part of my life; to Kyung-Lim Lee for translating her Korean tofu recipes for me; to Ta Lin grocery in Albuquerque, New Mexico, for not only carrying the most delicious tofu, but for telling me how to use it; to the many Asian restaurants I’ve frequented in my life, starting with the Iris Cafe in Sacramento, where I first encountered tofu so many years ago as a teen foodie; and to the many cooks and authors who have inspired my own use and enjoyment of a very special food. All of you provide the shoulders on which I stand.

Introduction

I WAS EIGHT WHEN A FRIEND of my father’s asked if he could use me in a film he was making about soybeans. My part was to paint a chair with a pink paint that was based on soybean oil. The film featured a lot of other friends doing things with soy-based products, but I don’t recall that the soybean was ever portrayed as food, except possibly as a meat extender. In the 1950s, there wouldn’t have been any mention of tofu, miso, or soy milk, for traditional soy foods were only to be found in the homes and restaurants of Japanese and Chinese Americans.

Today this is no longer the case, for we have greatly expanded our knowledge of soy foods and are now well aware of the healthful possibilities contained in the soybean, especially when made into tofu. In soy foods, especially tofu, we have a plant food that’s protein dense, has no cholesterol, abounds in phytochemicals that may protect against heart disease, isoflavonoids that can help soften the effects of menopause and protect against breast cancer, and reasonable calories for those who are counting them. In short, these are the very qualities that have probably fueled your interest in soy in the first place. What I want to do is alert you to its culinary possibilities, because it’s just not enough to know something’s good for you, then treat it like medicine. Without tofu being understood, isn’t it likely just to sit there in your refrigerator until you throw it out? There’s absolutely no reason to be eating tofu with the enthusiasm usually reserved for flossing our teeth. This sad approach completely eclipses its considerable culinary possibilities, as you will discover. In addition, you’ll be thrilled to discover that tofu is one of the quickest and easiest foods you can cook.

Knowing what tofu is and what its different designations mean—which type is for what and how to handle it—is important for producing good results in your kitchen. If you’re unfamiliar with tofu, do spend a little time with the introductory material so that you can start off in the right direction and enjoy the results of your efforts.

Yikes, It's Tofu!

IF YOU’VE NEVER ENCOUNTERED TOFU, you may feel perplexed about how to approach it. This is entirely understandable. At first glance, it’s simply not like any of the other foods we eat although, with experience, you may find this isn’t so. One of the best ways to become acquainted with tofu is to go to a restaurant and order a dish that has tofu, or bean curd, as it’s also called. Have a plate of mapo tofu in a Chinese restaurant, or order sukiyaki in a Japanese one, where you’ll also find tofu in your miso soup. In a Korean restaurant, you may have a stir-fry of beef and tofu. Many people enjoy tofu in the context of those cuisines where tofu is enough in and of itself and doesn’t pretend to be something else. In fact, since working on this book, it seems that everyone I meet is eager to tell me about a wonderful little tofu dish they had in a Thai, Japanese, Korean, or Chinese restaurant.

Similarly, I’ve found that one of the easiest approaches to cooking tofu at home is to cook it within the traditional flavors you’ve already encountered in restaurants. The reason why so many of the dishes in this book use ginger, coconut, cilantro, soy sauce, and other Asian ingredients is that they go so well with the delicate, nutty flavor of tofu. It turns out that tofu is also well enhanced by curry spices and Indian cooking techniques. It rather resembles the Indian cheese called paneer , and, in fact, it does stand in well for paneer.

When it comes to translating tofu for a Western palate, there are two main directions you can go in. One is to be quite obvious about it. You know you’re eating tofu when you bite into that Bachelor Tofu Sandwich ; the surprise is that it’s so good. The second is to use tofu so that it disappears. Blend it in a smoothie, whip it into mayonnaise, or add it to a cheese filling for manicotti. I’ve even had it in a chocolate cake. The surprise is that it’s there at all; you would never know.

Another way tofu has been used, an approach that I’m not at all fond of, is when it masquerades as feta cheese in a salad, a slab of mozzarella in a lasagna, or is crumbled up to imitate hamburger. What a rude surprise when you find out that those white cubes weren’t feta cheese after all! These recipes won’t lead you to expect one thing, then get another. They’re here simply because they taste good.

A lot of people say they don’t like tofu, or don’t like its texture, but my hunch is that that’s a case of tofu being misunderstood. If, after trying these recipes, you find that you still don’t like tofu, but want to include it in your diet, then look at the Smoothies and Shakes chapter and enjoy a lot of rich-tasting, creamy drinks.

Disappearing Tofu and Dessert

While most of the recipes in this book treat tofu as a food to be enjoyed for its own intrinsic qualities, tofu can also disappear into dishes so completely that you don’t even know it’s there. The success of a dessert made with tofu, a tofu mayonnaise, or tofu as feta cheese or sour cream, depends in part on where your food experiences lie. If you like the taste of traditional foods and aren’t using tofu in order to avoid eggs or dairy, then including some in a standard recipe gives you the benefits of soy without giving up traditional flavors. For example, you can stir pureed silken tofu into prepared mayonnaise, or into a ricotta filling intended for manicotti, ravioli, or enchiladas, and truly not know the difference. I have a suspicious palate when it comes to substitutes, so you can trust me on this.

When it comes to desserts, you might find soy milk a bit easier to use than tofu. Soy milk can be used wherever milk is called for in a recipe, except where color is important. For example, it makes no difference in a butterscotch tapioca or chocolate pudding, but it might be off-putting in an old-fashioned vanilla custard, simply because its hue can be slightly brownish. Otherwise, soy milk can easily be used as a substitute in dishes such as in cakes and French toast.

In desserts and baked goods, use 2 ounces pureed silken tofu to replace each egg called for in pancake, muffin, quick bread, and cake recipes. Or add tofu along with the eggs, or just the egg whites, to your recipe. The tofu provides moisture and structure to baked goods, yet doesn’t interfere with the flavor. It can even be included in a chocolate cake or a pumpkin pie with no one the wiser, and tofu cheesecakes have become rather popular these days. When using pureed tofu in baked goods, make sure that it’s completely smooth before adding it to a batter. Any little gobbets of tofu will harden as they bake and leave their visible traces, attractive neither to the tongue nor to the eye.

Not Just for Vegetarians

Tofu is particularly beloved of vegetarians because, among its other qualities, it is an excellent protein source and it is very easy to use in vegetarian dishes. But choosing to eat more tofu doesn’t mean that you have to become vegetarian. Traditionally, tofu is often combined with meat in dishes: in sukiyaki, tofu simmers with beef. Across Asia, tofu is seasoned with dried shrimp or oyster sauce, or simmered in chicken stock or daishi no moto , a Japanese stock made with dried bonito. If you are trying to include tofu at your table but are not a vegetarian, add it to stir-fries that you already know how to make, even if they use meat and fish. Reduce the amount of meat you use if that’s what you’re striving to do.

I have included some recipes that combine tofu with seafood, list both chicken and vegetable stocks as ingredients, and occasionally call for oyster sauce and fish sauce, which are excellent complementary flavorings for tofu. But for the most part, the recipes in this book are made without meat or fowl, since tofu does so well as a substitute for the protein-dense foods and is of special interest to vegetarians or those aiming to eat less meat.

Types of Tofu

AS IF IT’S NOT HARD ENOUGH TO REACH for your first package of tofu, which kind do you reach for? Soft or silken? Firm or extra-firm? Tofu that comes packed in water or tofu sealed in a box on a shelf far from any refrigeration? If you haven’t any idea about what to choose or why, you’re certainly not alone. For a lot of people this is sheer guesswork, and it needn’t be.

Before reviewing the kinds of tofu, it might be helpful first to understand how tofu is made. Making tofu is not dissimilar to making simple cheeses, such as ricotta, or yogurt. The process begins with a liquid that looks just like rich whole milk, only it’s made from ground soybeans. This soy milk is heated, just as cows’ milk is, then it’s either curdled or solidified with the addition of salts or acid.

Salts, such as nigari, magnesium chloride or calcium sulfate, work like rennet to separate the soy milk into curds and whey. The delicate curds are ladled into settling boxes that are perforated and lined with cloth. The whey drips out of the boxes, the remaining curds are pressed, and the result is tofu. The more the tofu is pressed, the firmer it becomes, and the more nutrient and calorically dense it becomes as well. The tofu is then packed in water-filled cartons. A recent addition to the market is very firm baked tofu that is packaged in oxygen-free plastic wrappers.

In a second process, thicker soy milk plus another substance, lactone, is added with the coagulant, which makes it possible for the soymilk to thicken in its container the way yogurt does. As there is no whey or any need for pressing, the resulting tofu is soft and silky, like yogurt. In fact, this type of tofu is called “silken tofu.” Traditionally silken tofu can be as delicate as the most perfectly cooked custard. The Chinese shopgirl in a market where I buy an exceptionally delicate fresh silken tofu says she loves this kind best and simply eats it with a spoon. Most silken tofu, however, is sold in foil-lined asceptic cartons that keep for months unrefrigerated.

Although both the regular pressed curds and the silken tofu are labeled soft, firm , or extra-firm , silken tofu is always more delicate and smoother than tofu packed in water. Each type of tofu has its own best use. Here’s what you’re likely to find in your supermarket.

Water-Packed Tofu (Regular Tofu)

This tofu is made by the curds-and-whey method. It is available in individual cartons. It is packed in water, which keeps the tofu fresh. You’ll find it refrigerated, either in the produce section of your market near the Asian vegetables or in the dairy case. Some brands are Nasoya, Azumaya, Quong Hop, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, White Wave, and others. While there are some national brands, every part of the country has a few small local factories that produce tofu. My preference is for the Japanese brands; I find their textures and flavors superior. I find some of the newer non-Asian brands tend to be a little grainier, but like everything, it’s a matter of personal taste and how you plan to use the tofu.

Usually this type of tofu comes in one block, but sometimes it comes in four smaller blocks, each weighing about 5 ounces. This is most likely to be true when you buy Chinese brands in an Asian market. In general, the cartons weigh between 14 and 20 ounces. Usually, one carton is enough for two to four servings—two, if you really like tofu.

Firm or Regular: Referred to by either name, I think of this as my all-purpose tofu. It’s strong enough to withstand frying, sautéing, and grilling, but tender enough to take the place of soft tofu. Even when fried until crisp on the outside, it will be creamy on the inside. It’s not quite as smooth as the soft tofu, nor is it as grainy as the extra-firm. It is the tofu I’ve used most often in this book. If you’re going to buy tofu but don’t know how you’re going to use it, you’ll be safest buying regular or firm tofu.

Soft: Use this kind of tofu when you want to serve very simple tofu dishes that have nothing more than a little sauce or garnish, tofu that’s to appear in salads, or tofu that you intend to scramble like eggs or with eggs. Soft tofu is also good in a smoothie, added to baked goods, or used in place of mayonnaise and other creamy-textured sauces and dips. Soft tofu has the most delicate taste and custardlike texture. As you would expect, it requires more careful handling, unless it’s to be pureed.

Extra-firm: This tofu has been pressed longer than soft or firm tofu. This is the tofu you can marinate forever, throw on a grill without fear of its breaking apart, or use where you want the crumbly texture of ground pork or hamburger, although the firm tofu will work, too. In short, you can handle it roughly. When people say they don’t like the texture of tofu, I am fairly sure that extra-firm is the kind they’re referring to, because it’s a little coarse and lacks the delicacy of softer tofu. However, it’s ideal when you need tofu that won’t fall apart or when you’re planning to break it into crumbles, as in the Green “Chorizo” .

Silken Tofu

Made like yogurt, this tofu sets into a single smooth unit; there is no whey. Most often, silken tofu comes aseptically packed in a 10-ounce box that needs no refrigeration. While many stores feature silken tofu in the produce section, it can also be found on the aisle where curry pastes, noodles, and soy sauce are sold. It is not surrounded with water, though once opened, if you haven’t managed to use it all at once, you can keep it by covering it with cold water. It will keep this way for 2 to 3 days.

Although silken tofu comes labeled soft, firm , and extra-firm , even the extra-firm is fairly soft and tender. However, it can successfully be fried and will fall apart only marginally in a stir-fry. Soft silken tofu tastes good and looks beautiful when floating in a miso soup, and firm and extra-firm both work well mingling among salad leaves with their pungent dressings. When adding silken tofu to salads, I often simmer it first in salted water for 2 minutes, which improves the flavor and firms the texture.

The soft silken tofu is ideal for pureeing and using in dishes where you plan to have it disappear, as in salad dressings, mayonnaise, or smoothies, or if you wish to scramble it with eggs or treat it like the Indian cheese, paneer. However you can use firm and extra-firm silken tofus as well.

Techniques for Using Tofu

Draining: Draining simply means pouring off the water that the tofu is packaged in. Pressing refers to wrapping it in cloth or paper towels or letting it sit on toweling to force out the excess water within. The reasons for pressing the water out of tofu are:

However, you don’t have to fret about this, nor do you have to do it every time. Generally, I find that tofu can simply sit on some toweling while I’m assembling other ingredients, and that’s plenty of time to remove excess water. For tofu that’s to be deep-fried, you have to do a serious pressing or the water will spurt dangerously in the oil. If you’re not deep-frying tofu, look to the simpler methods that follow.

Serious Pressing: Wrap an entire piece of drained tofu in an absorbent dish towel. Set the tofu on a cutting board and weight it down with something heavy, like a large can of tomatoes. Rest one end of the board on a plate or something else so that the board with the weighted tofu is tilted toward the sink. The excess water will drain off and flow into the sink. Leave for 20 to 30 minutes.

Towel Drying: This method is especially good for sliced tofu that’s going to be shallow-fried. Use a cloth dish towel or several layers of paper towels. Lay the sliced tofu on the toweling, cover it with a second layer, and press gently to wick off the excess moisture. Leave it like this while you prepare the rest of your ingredients.

Pan Drying: This process both dries and firms the tofu so that it won’t fall apart in a stir-fry. Slice or cube the tofu without pressing or towel drying first, then put it in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, adding a little oil if you wish. The water in the tofu will evaporate and eventually the tofu will brown slightly, even if you haven’t added any oil to the pan. This will both dry and firm the tofu.

Oven Drying: Place sliced or cubed tofu in a very lightly oiled pie plate and cook at 375°F until all the water has evaporated and the tofu has a nice, slightly firm feel to it when pressed with your finger. This will take 20 to 25 minutes at 375°. After 10 to 12 minutes, the tofu will have released a lot of water. Carefully pour it off, then return the tofu to the oven to finish drying.

The Myth of Marinating

Along with the notion that tofu will become whatever you wish by virtue of its seasonings comes the idea of the marinade, the liquid means of transformation. I have always felt that marinades are terribly overrated, and that they don’t really accomplish much except to flavor the very outside of the tofu itself. When I was the chef at Greens restaurant, we used to keep blocks of firm Chinese tofu submerged for days in an extremely strong marinade of red wine, mustard, dried mushrooms, soy sauce, and other ingredients, but it never did much more than affect the appearance and taste of the tofu’s outermost surfaces. When we cut into it, it was pure white, the marinade clearly never having penetrated the tofu.

A more effective use for a marinade is as a cooking liquid. Pour it over the tofu as it cooks and the marinade will reduce and leave a lustrous, flavorful sheen. I think you’ll be very happy with the results. Here’s the basic method:

Silken and Soft Regular Tofu

These techniques, which can be used with all grades of silken tofu as well as soft regular tofu, firm the texture, which keeps it from falling apart when cooked. The cooking and the salt also round out the flavor. I routinely use this technique with silken tofu that I’m going to cook further, and when I use tofu in salads.

Simmering: Bring 6 cups water in a wide skillet to the boil. Add 1 teaspoon sea salt, then lower the heat so that the water is barely simmering. Add the tofu. Simmer small cubes for 1 to 2 minutes; larger cubes for 4 to 5 minutes. Gently remove the tofu with a strainer and set it on a towel to drain for several minutes. Once dried, this tofu will be fine for gentle frying.

Steeping: Bring 6 cups water in a wide skillet to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon salt, then turn off the heat. Add the tofu and let it steep for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a flat strainer. If you wish to cool the tofu, lower the strainer into a bowl of cold water, then turn the tofu onto a towel until needed.

Simple, Basic Tofu

THE FOLLOWING SEVEN RECIPES ARE SIMPLE, basic approaches that will allow you to cook tofu with particular ease and speed. The results can be enjoyed immediately (try Fried Tofu, below, with a peanut sauce or sprinkled with salt), incorporated into other dishes (see Tofu and Mushrooms Braised in a Sweet-and-Sour Sauce ), or just used as techniques in other recipes.

While the smoking technique is not quite as speedy as searing and glazing, it does provide you with barbecued tofu that can go right into a sandwich or become part of another dish where smoky flavor and meaty texture are desired.

About Frying Tofu

Many people prefer tofu when it has a crisp, golden exterior. Frying always makes everything taste better, of course, plus the pretty golden exterior makes tofu that much more attractive as an ingredient. Because a lot of people don’t want to deep-fry these days, I’ve not called for this method except in a few recipes. You can, however, buy chunks of deep-fried tofu in Asian markets.

Tofu can also be given color and texture by shallow-frying or simply browning in a nonstick or castiron skillet with little or no fat added. Shallow-frying also helps the spice coatings used in some dishes to do their work of flavoring the tofu more effectively. Frying not only gives tofu an attractive color and crisp surface, it firms it up as well. Don’t hesitate to season the tofu with a little salt and pepper.

Deep-Frying: First, apply the serious pressing technique to a block of firm or extra-firm tofu, then cut it into the desired shapes. Blot up any excess moisture with paper towels. Heat two to three cups of peanut or vegetable oil in a deep-sided pot or skillet. When the oil is hot enough to quickly sizzle a piece of tofu, add several pieces of tofu to the pot. They will cluster together and tend to fuse in the oil, so use tongs or chopsticks to separate them as they cook. Fry until golden, but don’t let them get brown or the tofu will be too hard. Remove the tofu and drain it on paper toweling. Use these tofu pieces in other dishes, or salt them and serve with a peanut sauce or other dipping sauce as an appetizer.

Shallow-Frying: Dry the tofu thoroughly, but not fanatically. Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a skillet by about ¼ inch or slightly less. When hot, add the tofu in a single layer and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels if desired. You can use the tofu in stir-fries or other dishes, or return it all to the pan and add whatever sauce or flavoring you desire.

Pan-Browning: Because tofu already has a fair amount of fat in it, if you add sliced or cubed tofu to a dry nonstick skillet as described here , it will eventually color a bit, turning pale gold. If you don’t mind a little fat, misting the pan lightly with peanut oil will bring out more color. Add a pinch or two of sea salt and some pepper when you’re done. As with any other foods, salt and pepper make tofu taste better.

2. Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet. When hot, add the tofu and fry over medium-high heat until golden. Turn and cook the second side, about 10 minutes in all. Pour over the Worcestershire sauce and continue cooking until it evaporates, leaving the tofu nicely glazed and seasoned. Salt lightly and season with plenty of pepper.

3. Scatter the scallion, chives, pepper flakes, cilantro, and sesame seeds over the top, then season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

4. Pour in the marinade and shuffle the pan back and forth to coat the tofu. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the sauce is syrupy and the tofu is glazed. Don’t let it cook so long that it gets sticky.

Note: For onion rings, slice a large, peeled red or yellow onion into ½ inch rounds. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Secure the rings with a couple of toothpicks so they won’t fall apart. Grill on both sides until lightly marked and slightly softened.

•

•

4. Scatter 2 tablespoons wood chips in the bottom of a stovetop smoker. Lightly oil the rack and place the tofu on it. Close the top and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Open, brush tops of the tofu generously with barbecue sauce, and cook 15 minutes more. When done the tofu should be firm but offer a little resistance when pressed. Don’t let it get hard, but if it still feels just a little too soft, brush it once more with barbecue sauce and cook 10 to 15 minutes longer, or until done.

•

To Braise: Once the tofu is golden, add half the marinade and let it cook over medium-high heat, sloshing it over the tofu, until well reduced and the tofu is burnished but not dry, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Appetizers: Tofu Up Front

THE SECRET FOR MAKING TOFU WORK as an appetizer is to make dishes with intense flavors and interesting textures. Using dipping sauces, deep frying, having crunchy coatings of sesame seeds or pepper, and allying tofu with lively ingredients, such as ginger, all contribute to making successful appetizers that can be eaten with the fingers or from a toothpick.

Frying isn’t always a must, however. If you enjoy the delicate flavor of fresh, soft tofu, there are some other options, such as serving it chilled with little bowls of scallions, soy sauce, and grated ginger, a remarkably simple dish and one that’s more typically Japanese. One appetizer I thoroughly enjoy is hiya-yakko —cubes of impeccably fresh tofu served in a bowl of water and ice and accompanied by a very lively dipping sauce. This is utterly cool and soothing on a hot August evening.

6. Heat 2 cups peanut oil in a wok or skillet. When hot enough to sizzle a corner of a wrapper, add a roll and fry, turning once, until golden and crisp. Remove to drain on a paper towel and repeat until all are done. Cut them in half on the diagonal, arrange on a platter, and garnish with long sprigs of cilantro. Serve with hot mustard for dipping.

3. Mound 1 tablespoon of the filling at the broadest part of each leaf, then fold over the sides and roll, tucking in the sides as you go. Arrange on a serving plate, seam side down, with bowls of peanut sauce for dipping.

4. Add the spinach to the pan with a pinch of salt, and stir-fry until wilted. Pour off any juices, then return the tofu mixture to the pan, add the scallions, and toss well. Taste for salt and season with more pepper, if desired. Mound in a bowl or on a platter and garnish with cilantro sprigs.

3. Fry the tofu according to the method you wish to use, then set briefly on toweling to drain. Heap the tofu on a plate or skewer it, garnish with pretty sprigs of cilantro, and serve with the sweet-and-spicy sauce.

5. When all the pieces are fried, mound them on a pretty plate and season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve right away.

3. Heat the oil in a heavy 8-inch skillet until it sizzles when a piece of tofu is added. Fry about 8 pieces at a time until golden, then scoop them out and drain on paper toweling. Fry as many pieces as you wish to serve, set them on a plate or in a napkin-lined basket, and serve right away.

3. Serve with the peanut sauce in a communal bowl or individual bowls and provide toothpicks for skewering and dipping.

1 . Combine all the ingredients in a food processor, except the water, and puree until smooth. Gradually pour in the water. Taste for salt and cayenne, adding more if necessary.

Salads, Sandwiches, and Sauces

BECAUSE TOFU IS SUCH A VERSATILE INGREDIENT , it isn’t limited to any single preparation. In salads and sandwiches, for example, tofu often appears as the main ingredient and is usually identifiable as such, but not always. Sauces, on the other hand, tend to use tofu in a more discreet manner, concealing its identity by mingling it with herbs, garlic, mayonnaise and such.

While tofu might appear as mock chicken, you can also reverse the order, using tofu in a dressing to spoon over poached chicken or fish. Other simple preparations feature tofu in a salad with chilled buckwheat noodles or finely shredded napa cabbage in its purest form: uncooked and seasoned with the simplest of sauces. On the other hand, little cubes of glazed, peppered tofu show up in a warm cabbage salad.

Tofu’s guises are many. Whether simply browned in a skillet with a dash of Worcestershire sauce or more elaborately seasoned with an oregano-pesto coating, tofu makes a robust sandwich filling that goes great with mayonnaise, mustard, tomatoes, or sautéed onions. It can also disappear into such familiar sandwich fillings for falafel or croquettes, while a curried crumbled tofu dish makes a new and unexpected filling for pita bread.

As for sauces, I find that tofu (preferably silken) works best in mayonnaise-type sauces that are white and creamy. It also slips undetected into a Green Goddess dressing, blue cheese dressing, or horseradish cream. You can use tofu by itself to make a dairy- and egg-free salad dressing, but if you’re a little nervous about going solo with tofu, you can successfully cut it with sour cream or yogurt, or simply add some pureed tofu to a recipe you’ve already made, perhaps increasing the seasonings a bit.

•

Green and White Rice Salad: Finely chop the cooked spinach and add it along with the sesame seeds to 2 cups freshly cooked warm white rice, a finely diced cucumber, and 2 finely slivered scallions. Toss well, then add the tofu and toss once before serving so as not to break it up.

Variation: Include thinly sliced radishes, kohlrabi, purple cabbage and spinach leaves, paper-thin carrot shavings, white mushrooms, fresh peas or boiled fresh soybeans (edamame).

5. Add the peanuts and chopped cilantro to the tofu along with the remaining ingredients. Toss well, then serve.

•

5. Mound the cabbage and tofu on a large plate, garnish with the peppers, onions, scallions, cilantro, and sesame seeds. Serve.

•

5. To serve, flake the salmon onto 4 plates, add the potatoes and watercress. Spoon a little sauce over the salad and garnish with chives.

2. Combine the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more curry powder or lime juice, if needed, to make it a little more zesty. Add the tofu and gently toss with a rubber spatula. If possible, chill 20 minutes or more. The flavors will emerge and mellow as the salad stands.

2 Add the remaining ingredients and work together with a fork. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if necessary, so that they’re bright and lively.

4. Heat a nonstick or cast-iron skillet and coat generously with olive or vegetable oil. When hot, add the tofu. Fry on both sides over medium heat until golden and crisp.

4. Toast the bread or not, as you wish. Cover with mustard and horseradish (fresh tomatoes and mayonnaise would be good here as well), add the tofu slices, top with the onions, close, press, and dig in.

3. Film a cast-iron or nonstick skillet generously with olive oil. Divide the batter in half, then each half into sixths; doing this by eye is fine. Shape into patties about ⅜ inch thick, cook over medium heat until browned. Turn and cook the second side until browned. Serve right away.

3. Add the tomatoes and raise the heat, stirring and cooking until the juices have disappeared, then lower the heat and add the tofu. Season the dish with ½ teaspoon salt or more to taste, and cook until the tofu is heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro, sprinkle with the masala, if using, and turn into a serving dish. Serve hot or at room temperature.

4. Add the egg. Divide the mixture into ½ cup portions and shape into rounds or ovals. Lightly brush a nonstick skillet with olive oil, then fry the croquettes until golden, carefully turning them once with a spatula.

Variations: In place of dill, use a mixture of chopped dill, basil, parsley, and mint. Or, if you’re a fan of fresh coriander, replace the dill with finely chopped cilantro. Watercress and chives are another, more peppery combination.

Mix everything in a small bowl and season with pepper to taste.

2. Add the garlic, cilantro, sugar, lime zest, half the lime juice, and ½ teaspoon salt. Puree until smooth and green. Taste for salt and lime juice, adding more, if needed. Scrape into a bowl and chill until ready to use.

Chipotle Mayonnaise: Add 1 teaspoon pureed chipotle in adobo sauce into the mayonnaise. Taste and add more if you prefer it hotter. In place of lemon in the mayonnaise, use fresh lime juice.

Combine the tofu, chile, lime zest and juice, sour cream, and oil in a small food processor, and puree until completely smooth, stopping several times to scrape down the sides. Add the cilantro and scallion, and puree just enough to make a flecked, pale green sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Scrape into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the chives.

2. Add the tofu, ¼ teaspoon salt, and continue processing, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides, until you have a smooth, green-flecked sauce. Taste for salt and season with pepper. If the sauce is too thick for your purposes, or if it thickens in the refrigerator, thin it by whisking in water as needed.

Puree the tofu in a small food processor with the sour cream until perfectly smooth, scraping down the sides once or twice as necessary. Scrape into a bowl, stir in the horseradish, vinegar, and salt to taste.

Soups

MISO SOUP, THE FIRST DISH TO ARRIVE at the table in a Japanese restaurant, often comes with tiny cubes of silken tofu, so for many, tofu in soup is already a familiar sight. Here, I’ve included both traditional and new ways of using tofu in this sampler of soups. While I don’t think it necessarily makes sense to add diced tofu to every soup, in general it does work well in brothy soups seasoned with ginger, soy, lemongrass, coconut milk and other Asian seasonings.

If you wish to incorporate tofu into thicker soups, you’re better off adding it as a puree. For example, the first time I made the peanut soup I sautéed the tofu with paprika for color and flavor, but the paprika dissolved, leaving the tofu looking pale, out of place, and frankly unappealing. The second time I pureed the tofu with a portion of the soup, then added it back in, where it disappeared without a trace.

Using this method, you can include tofu in virtually any soup that’s going to be pureed entirely or in part, but it won’t be obvious. Always, when pureed tofu is to be cooked, make sure it’s perfectly smooth before adding it to the soup, so you don’t end up with little gobbets of tofu. You can use any kind of tofu for this, but the softer it is, the easier it will be to achieve silky smoothness.

At the end of this chapter, you will find three vegetable stocks.

Miso Soup with Spinach Crowns: While the stock is simmering, trim the root ends of the spinach, or crowns, as they’re called. The crowns are the base of the plant and are usually thrown away. Rinse them well, set in a bowl of cold water to soak for 15 minutes, in order to loosen any sand, then rinse them again. Add them to the soup with the tofu. They should just have wilted to tenderness by the time the tofu is heated through.

•

5. Serve the soup in individual bowls, add tofu to each, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds and chives. If you have any chive blossoms, scatter a few in each bowl.

5. When the noodles are hot and the bok choy is cooked, divide them among 4 bowls. Divide the tofu as well, then spoon over the broth. Add a few drops of chili oil to each bowl then garnish with the cilantro sprigs. Serve with extra soy sauce and chili oil on the side.

3. Add the greens and tofu. Cook gently, uncovered, until the greens are bright green and tender and the tofu is hot, about 5 minutes. Add the scallions. Taste for salt and add the remaining sesame oil. Add the soy sauce, by drops, to taste, if the dish seems to need a little extra punch. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

4. Add the coconut milk to the soup, followed by the tofu. Simmer until the soup is hot again and the tofu is heated through, about 5 minutes. Taste for salt, adding more if necessary. Add the cilantro and basil, and squeeze in the juice from the lime. Serve immediately. (If you plan to serve the soup long after making it, add the cilantro, basil, and lime when you reheat it.)

5. Serve with ⅓ cup rice mounded in each bowl and plenty of scallions scattered over the top.

Scrub the vegetables and chop them roughly into 1 inch chunks. Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the vegetables and herbs and cook over high heat 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. The more color they get, the richer the flavor of the stock. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Strain.

Combine all the ingredients in a pot and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Strain, pressing out the liquid from the vegetables.

2. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, mirin, and salt to taste. Simmer 10 minutes more. Remove the mushrooms and set aside, then strain. Taste and add more salt or soy, if needed. Discard the stems of the mushrooms and reserve the caps to use in miso soup or in another dish.

Stir-fries and Sautés

STIR-FRYING AND SAUTÈING are two methods that utilize high heat and rapid movement of the ingredients. Because tofu is so delicate, I nearly always fry, brown, or simmer it first so that it won’t disintegrate during this lively cooking action. Precooking firms the proteins in the tofu, rendering it a little less prone to fall apart. And as a side benefit, when browned, the flavor of both the tofu and attendant seasonings is likely to be heightened.

Stir-fried tofu, in combination with a vegetable or several vegetables, as in the Lohans’ or Buddha’s feast, is a common menu item in Chinese restaurants. You’ve undoubtedly encountered it before and may even have a number of recipes for tofu stir-fries in your repertoire, or in cookbooks that you own. Ginger and garlic are nearly always at the base of a stir-fry, but there are other approaches to take when it comes to seasoning stir-fried or sautéed tofu. Southeast Asian ingredients, such as tamarind, lemongrass, and lime; Indian spices, such as cumin and turmeric; and Western herbs, such as parsley and marjoram, are all effective flavoring agents. This selection is intended to expand your seasoning horizons.

4. Slide everything onto a platter (use a bright blue one if you can) and serve immediately.

4. Add the tofu and tomatoes, and cook until the tofu is heated through, just a few minutes more. Add the cilantro and serve immediately.

•

•

5. Pour in the soy-sauce mixture and cook, moving the pan back and forth rapidly to coat the tofu and peppers. Turn off the heat before it reduces completely. Top with cashews, and serve over rice.

2. Heat a wide nonstick skillet, add the oil, and when hot, add the garlic and the bok choy. Sprinkle with salt and stir-fry over high heat for about 2 minutes until the greens are wilted. Add the stock, reduce the heat to low, then add the tofu. Cover and simmer until the tofu is heated through, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the diluted cornstarch and gently stir it into the juices without breaking the tofu. Serve over rice.

6. To serve, place the asparagus on a platter and intersperse with the tofu. Garnish with the cilantro and limes, which should be squeezed over everything.

4. Add the remaining oil, add the peanuts and cod, and cook over high heat until the cod is barely cooked, about 3 minutes. Return the tofu to the pan, add the scallions, and cook 1 minute more. Season with salt, then slide the tofu and fish onto a platter and garnish with lemon wedges.

3. If using the eggs, pour them over the tofu and vegetables, then cook, while stirring, until they’re set. Add the cheese, if using.

Whatever happened to fried rice, anyway? It’s such a good idea and so easy to make. All kinds of goodies can go into it—a few toasted cashews, small bits of chicken or shrimp, all kinds of vegetables and, of course, tofu. I combine slivers of deep-fried tofu with large pieces of regular tofu that have been sautéed until golden. White rice makes a very pretty background for all the different ingredients, but brown rice is nuttier tasting and better for you. Whichever you choose, start with cold, leftover rice. A mound of steamed napa cabbage or stir-fried tat soi on the side makes a good accompaniment .

Fried Rice with Eggs: Beat 2 eggs (or egg whites) with 1 tablespoon soy sauce. When the rice and vegetables are piping hot, pour the eggs over all and stir rapidly so that they coat the rice and are quickly cooked.

5. Return the mixture to the skillet, add the half-and-half and the tofu, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the yogurt. Serve over basmati rice.

Curries and Braises

CURRIES AND BRAISED DISHES provide a gentle cooking atmosphere and time enough in the pan for the tofu to absorb at least a portion of its neighboring herbs and spices. Because the method is not as fast and furious as sautéing or stir-frying, it’s not necessary to brown or fry the tofu first. If you enjoy the delicate, nutty flavor of fresh, soft tofu, then braises are a good cooking method. On the other hand, there’s nothing that says you can’t fry your tofu before adding it to the mix. In some dishes, this can add a definite advantage, particularly a visual one.

Braising also allows flavors of all kinds to join and build a larger harmony. For this very reason, curries provide one of the best ways to utilize tofu, which is right at home with chili pastes, coconut milk, cashews and lime, or Indian tikka spices. You can travel in other directions, too. The Cajun-inspired Cheese, Chile, and Hot Pepper Tofu dish works extremely well, as does the mingling of tofu with mushrooms in a paprika-flavored sauce. While none of these big-flavored recipes are very complicated, even simpler examples of gentle cooking are included here, such as simmering tofu in prepared hoisin or oyster sauce. Certainly nothing could be easier!

4. Spoon the tofu and sauce over rice and serve with a spoonful of yogurt and chutney.

3 . Add the onion, bell pepper, and chiles, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the curry paste, then add the coconut milk, stock, ½ teaspoon salt, and the tofu. Simmer 2 minutes more, or until the tofu is heated through. Serve over rice or noodles, garnished with the roasted cashews and cilantro.

3. Add the lime juice. Season to taste with a teaspoon or more mushroom soy sauce. Serve garnished with chopped cilantro.

4. Spoon over the cooked rice or noodles and garnish with the basil leaves.

2. Add the tofu, vegetables, basil, and a pinch or two of salt. Stew gently for 5 minutes, then add the spinach and cook until wilted and bright green. Serve over the rice.

•

•

5. Divide the rice among 4 plates and spoon the curry and its sauce on top. Spoon some yogurt over each serving and sprinkle scallions over all. Add a spoonful of chutney on the side or pass it separately.

5. Serve the vegetables over cooked rice with 3 shrimp arranged on each serving. Sprinkle over the remaining lime juice, garnish with the cilantro, and serve.

Note: Soft tofu packed in water has the nicest flavor and texture, both of which are more pronounced if the tofu isn’t browned. If you enjoy the pure flavor of the soft tofu, heat the sauce with the tofu in it until it has warmed through. If it reduces too much, simply add a little more water or stock to thin it out.

3. Heat a wok or large skillet. Add the oil and when it’s hot, add the ginger and the sauce ingredients. Bring to a boil, stir to dissolve the sugar, and simmer for about 1 minute. Add the tofu, cover, and simmer until heated through, 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the cubes. Slide the pan back and forth to coat it with the sauce. Stir the diluted cornstarch into the pan and cook until it thickens, in just 1 or 2 minutes.

4. Remove and taste the broth, adding more soy sauce or salt, if desired. Stir in the chilli paste, if using, dabbing it into different parts of the pan so that it will season the broth evenly. Taste and add more if you wish. Serve in 2 large bowls.

Combine all the ingredients in a small food processor and puree until smooth. Taste for salt and add a little extra, if needed.

•

6. Stir in the parsley and spoon the vegetables and their sauce over rice or noodles, adding the snow peas last.

•

•

5. Set several of the nicer-looking pieces of tofu aside and turn off the heat. Spoon several tablespoons of the liquid into the sour cream and stir until smooth, then stir the mixture into the pan. Next, stir in the cheese and let it melt. Return the pieces of tofu to the stew, add some fresh chopped parsley, and serve, in its pan, with rice.

Pasta and Noodles

PASTA (AND NOODLES), the universal food, is at home with tofu as it is with other foods, whether you’re pairing tofu with spaghetti, mung bean threads or buckwheat pasta, or whether you’re using ginger, chile, and soy, or sour cream and dill as seasonings and sauces.

Chilled soba and tofu have already met in the salad chapter, where they mingle with soy, ginger, and dark-roasted sesame oil. In a more discrete fashion, many of the tofu-based sauces can be used to coat a macaroni salad or salads based on somen or udon noodles. However, most of my pasta-tofu combinations are warm dishes and none of them feature tofu as a replacement for mozzarella or ricotta cheese. Instead, I’ve tried to feature tofu as itself, although recipes involving chicken and fish have proved more than once to be worthwhile as springboards.

There’s no one best way of using tofu with pasta or noodles. It needn’t be fried first, although sometimes it works best that way. It needn’t always be cut into large pieces. The Seared Mushrooms with Tiny Cubes of Tofu makes the most delicious filling for wonton wrappers, an intriguing mixture that can also be tossed with thin Chinese egg noodles. Thicker Chinese egg noodles are feature with glazed tofu and a peanut sauce. Curly American egg noodles make a tender bed for a sauce of tofu, sour cream, and paprika, while lo mein noodles drink up the tamarind-laced sauce that accompanies sautéed Mushrooms and Tofu . Although I haven’t called for them, I think saffron noodles would make a rather interesting base for any of the tofu curries, especially those involving coconut milk. No doubt there’s a type of pasta or noodle for virtually every tofu dish, even those where rice has been suggested as an accompaniment.

5. Rewarm the sauce, if necessary, then turn off the heat, add the fresh herb and stir in the sour cream. Pour over the egg noodles and serve.

•

3. Simmer the half-and-half in a wide skillet with the remaining ingredients for 5 minutes. Season with a few pinches of salt and black pepper. Meanwhile, simmer the tortellini in salted, simmering water for 2 minutes, or until tender, then remove with a strainer and set them in the sauce. Shuffle the pan back and forth so that the sauce washes over the pasta. Continue to cook a little longer if the sauce is still on the thin side. Place on heated plates, pour the sauce and cabbage over each plate, then serve, adding a little ground pepper to each plate.

4. Add the reserved liquid to the pan and stir rapidly, cooking until everything is well mixed and still moist. Remove from the heat. Taste for salt and pepper.

3. Immediately put the pasta in a wide skillet along with the tofu. Thin the sauce with the reserved water, pour it over the noodles, and toss repeatedly with two forks. Add most of the scallions and cilantro and toss again. Divide among heated bowls and garnish with the remaining scallions and cilantro.

•

3. Toss the noodles with half the scallions and sesame seeds, then divide among 4 plates. Make a little depression in the center of the noodles. Dice the tofu into ½-inch cubes and set them in the center. Spoon the sauce over the tofu and the noodles, then sprinkle with the remaining scallions and sesame seeds. Serve.

4. Drain the pasta and divide among 3 or 4 heated bowls. Spoon the tofu and mushrooms on top and serve with a little chopped parsley on each.

•

4. Now add the snow peas, scallions, and boiled tofu. Stir-fry for 1 minute more, then add the noodles and the sauce. Reduce the heat, toss so that everything is evenly mingled, then cover and cook until the noodles are heated through, a matter of just a few minutes. Turn onto a large platter and garnish with sprigs of cilantro.

Tofu for Breakfast: “Sausage” and Eggs

ONCE WHEN I WAS LOOKING FOR LUNCH in Baja, Mexico, I noticed a sign advertising “soy chorizo.” I found it surprising, but since then I’ve also found soy chorizo advertised elsewhere in Mexico. I discovered in a Mexican health food store, that it was made of TVP, or texturized vegetable protein, seasoned with chorizo spices. The sausage I tried in the market was absolutely delicious. Most likely, the TVP was used as an extender and mixed with pork. Nonetheless, it inspired me to make an attempt at using tofu in sausage and, the result is a delicious crumble that’s right at home with scrambled eggs or in a breakfast burrito. If you want a “sausage” that will stick together, add some moistened bread crumbs and eggs. I’ve included both methods here. While I’ve stayed with Mexican seasonings, if you like the idea, try using the seasonings that go into your favorite sausages—cumin, fennel seed, chile—whatever you prefer.

Tofu also works well as scrambled eggs. If you use a soft tofu and just break it into the pan, you’ll end up with tender curds; firmer tofu will give you denser ones. Just a pinch or two of turmeric or curry softens the glaring white color of the tofu, giving it a light golden hue. This is one instance where additions such as cheese, scallions, herbs, and salsas fit right in. You can also break an egg or two, or just the whites, into the pan once the tofu is cooked. I ate scrambled tofu with egg whites for a week at the Rancho la Puerta fitness spa and never realized I was eating tofu (and me, a tofu fan!), so that just goes to show you how well it can work.

3. Combine the puree with the tofu, bread crumbs, salt, and eggs, if using. Toss well. Before cooking the entire mixture, check the seasoning by frying a little of it, then tasting it. I find that with the vinegar and chile, this is enough salt, if not add more, then heat the oil in a wide skillet and fry until golden.

3. To cook, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a skillet, add the mixture, and cook over medium-high heat until it’s fairly dry and crumbly, but still tender. At this point you can stir it into scrambled eggs, add it to a breakfast burrito, or home-fried potatoes, and so forth.

3. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas in a second skillet or on an asador , a stove top grill that sits over the burner. Turn them so that both sides are hot. Wrap the scrambled eggs in the tortillas, and serve with salsa.

Note: To make your own corn chips, start with corn tortillas—stale, if possible—and cut them into strips or wedges. Spray lightly with oil or leave dry. Bake at 425°F until crisp or microwave a single layer of chips at a time, for 1 minute on high, then turn and microwave for 40 seconds longer, or until crisp.

3. Add the herbs and cheese, taste and season with salt, then season with pepper. Serve with a dash of paprika over the top.

3. Crumble the tofu into the pan, sprinkle over the turmeric, and cook, stirring frequently, until dry and firm. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and stir in the cilantro and cheese. Serve with warm tortillas and salsa.

Smoothies and Shakes

SMOOTHIES AND THEIR COUSINS , good at any time, tend to serve as a substitute for the sit-down, solid breakfast. Fortunately, one can find portable sustenance along with good flavor in a smoothie.

While I’ve long been comfortable sipping a smoothie made with soy milk, the idea of drinking pureed tofu did make me nervous. Once I gave it a try, I had to admit that it was pretty good. Good enough that I’m confident that even the most reluctant among us will be pleasantly surprised. Tofu works especially well in drinks that you want to be smooth and creamy (but not made that way with banana), such as those based on coffee or juice. Tofu, however, does have a presence, so strong surrounding flavors are recommended. For this reason you may have better success if you base your smoothies on soy milk, and use tofu in small quantities as a thickener. Silken tofu purees most nicely, but you can use any type except extra-firm regular tofu. One-half to 1 cup are ample for 2 servings.

Don’t take the measurements given here too seriously. They’re just to get you started. After you’ve made one or two smoothies you’ll be concocting your own combinations with flair. You’ll also develop a keen eye for things that used to be bothersome, like a half-pot of espresso that’s gone cold, a little coconut milk begging to be used, a dollop of peanut butter, the tail end of some lemon curd, or a pear that’s grown a little too soft to serve. All of these can be easily turned into delicious beverages.

The ice cubes, by the way, are for making your smoothie cold. Leave them out, if you really don’t care, or briefly freeze the fresh fruit and skip the ice. If you like protein powders and the like, go ahead and add them to your drinks as well.

In a food processor or blender, puree the tofu and fruit until smooth, gradually adding the milk to loosen the mixture. Add the honey and ice and continue to blend until smooth.

Put the tofu and peaches in the blender with the vanilla and almond extracts and puree until smooth. Add the honey, milk, and ice, continue to blend until smooth, then serve.

Variations: ¼ cup peanut butter or almond butter • 2 tablespoons or more chocolate syrup • both peanut butter and chocolate syrup • ½ cup coconut milk plus a squeeze of fresh lime

Put the dates and soy milk in a blender and blend on low speed until the dates are completely broken up. This can take a few minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and blend at high speed until smooth and cold. Serve in small glasses.

Combine the first four ingredients in the blender and puree until smooth. Stir in the passion fruit syrup, if desired, to taste.

Peel the mango, then slice it right over the blender jar to catch all the juices. Once you’ve cut off the big chunks of mango, just squeeze your hand over the whole thing to get off as much flesh and juice as possible. Add all the other ingredients to the blender and puree until smooth. Pour into 2 glasses and garnish with mint.

Puree the soy milk and tofu in the blender until smooth, scraping down the sides once or twice. Add the remaining ingredients and puree once more until smooth and cold. Serve in small glasses.

Variations: pinch cinnamon or nutmeg • vanilla • hazelnut or almond syrup • chocolate syrup • coconut milk • a big scoop of vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt • a banana

Accompaniments

MOST OF THE TOFU DISHES IN THIS BOOK are brightly seasoned with spicy, pungent, hot, sour, sweet, and salty ingredients—ginger and chile, soy sauce, tamarind, garlic, rice wine, and of course, curry spices. Consequently, they tend to go best with foods that are rather neutral, and what could be more perfect than rice, the ideal foil for such complex lively seasonings? Rice is nice, but change is always welcome on occasion, and that’s when I turn to sweet potatoes as an alternative accompaniment, their sweetness being friendly to the ginger-soy-chile triad. Here are some basic recipes for both rice and sweet potatoes so that you can round out your tofu dishes.

Rice

You may already have your own perfect way of cooking rice. However, there’s more than one way, and it partly depends on the rice you use, long- or short-grain, white or brown.

2. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Cook until the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender, 15 to 18 minutes. If it’s not quite done but the pot seems dry, add a few tablespoons water, re-cover, and let steam for 5 more minutes. Gently separate the grains with a fork before serving.

Put the rice and salt in a medium, heavy saucepan and add water to cover by 1 inch (about 3 cups.) Bring to a boil, then continue boiling over medium heat until most of the liquid on the surface has evaporated or been absorbed and the surface looks as if it’s covered with little craters. This should take 15 to 18 minutes. Now reduce the heat as low as it will go and cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 15 minutes, or until tender.

Combine rice and water in a saucepan, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cover tightly. Cook for 45 minutes without disturbing. Taste the rice. If it’s still a little too firm but the water has been absorbed, spoon several tablespoons of water over the surface, return the lid, and continue cooking until the rice is done. Repeat if necessary.

Sweet potatoes go well with those tofu dishes that are full of ginger and soy, and they make a nice change from rice and noodles as accompaniments. Choose organic sweet potatoes and you can enjoy eating the skins; just give them a good scrubbing first. Don’t, by the way, bypass the delicious Garnet and Jewel yams. They are, in fact, sweet potatoes. Here are various ways to prepare them.

Steamed Sweet Potatoes: Allow one medium (8- to 10-ounce) tuber per person. Scrub well, then place on a steaming rack over boiling water and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes. Pierce them with a knife to check for doneness. The knife should just slide in.

Pressure Cooked Sweet Potatoes: Place scrubbed sweet potatoes in the pressure cooker on a rack over water. Secure the lid, bring to pressure, then cook on high for 15 minutes. Quickly release the pressure, open the lid, and check for doneness. If they’re not quite cooked, return the lid and simply steam until done. It should only be a matter of minutes.

The pressure cooker is a great tool to use when you intend to make a puree of your sweet potatoes, as it cooks them to such tenderness and so quickly.

Sweet Potato Puree: Cook sweet potatoes until they’re absolutely tender, then mash them with a fork, including the skin, if you wish. Season with salt and pepper, a little butter if you like, or dark sesame oil.

4. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil, give the potatoes a stir, and continue baking until tender and glazed, another 20 minutes or so.

Inspired Reading

Index

Also by Deborah Madison

The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone

Vegetable Literacy

Seasonal Fruit Desserts

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone

Vegetable Soups from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

Local Flavors